A curated travel journal from Japan's Kii Peninsula
Best things to do in Wakayama
Attractions, Itineraries & Day Trips
Wakayama occupies the Kii Peninsula, the mountainous thumb of land south of Osaka — close enough to reach in an hour, remote enough to keep its secrets. This is where Japan goes on pilgrimage: to Koyasan's monastery town, along the Kumano Kodo trails, to the great waterfall at Nachi. It is also where Japan holidays quietly — white-sand onsen resorts, tuna harbours, and the town that gave the country soy sauce. We gather the best local Japanese-language writing about all of it, so you can travel deeper than the guidebooks go.
Explore by area
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Wakayama City & Around Castle town ramen, temple steps, lacquer streets and harbour sunsets
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Koyasan & Around A monastery town in the clouds, orchards in the valley below
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Yuasa Soy Sauce & Around Soy sauce's birthplace, mikan terraces and the Hidaka coast
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Shirahama Beach & Around White sand, open-air onsen — and Japan's plum heartland
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Kushimoto & Around Honshu's southernmost cape — rock pillars, coral seas, clear rivers
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Nachi Falls & Around Japan's tallest waterfall and all three grand shrines of Kumano
Latest stories
Wakayama City & Around View all
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Wakayama Castle: The Third Keep and What to Look For Inside
Wakayama Castle stands on Torafusu-yama, a wooded hill of only 48.9 metres in the middle of the prefectural capital, and counts among Japan's hundred fine castles. It…
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Junkissa Lierre: Waffles and Morning Sets in a Meiji Villa at Wakaura
Junkissa Lierre occupies a Meiji-era villa at Wakaura, the stretch of coast on the southern edge of Wakayama City that poets have been writing about since the Nara…
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Michi-no-Eki Negoro Sakura no Sato (Roadside Station)
Michi-no-Eki Negoro Sakura no Sato is a farm stand and rest stop in Iwade, on the northern edge of Wakayama, five minutes by car from the Iwade-Negoro interchange. It…
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Tomogashima: Walking the Meiji Fort Ruins of an Uninhabited Island
Tomogashima is a cluster of uninhabited islets off Kada, at the western edge of Wakayama City. Under Meiji the army fortified them to guard the Kitan Strait and the sea…
Koyasan & Around View all
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Michi-no-Eki Kinokawa Manyo no Sato (Roadside Station)
This roadside station stands on National Route 24 at the western gate of Katsuragi Town, facing a stretch of the Kinokawa that early Japanese poetry could not leave…
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Yama-no-Ie Oishi: Lunch and Siphon Coffee on Oishi Kogen
Oishi Kogen is a plateau on the long ridge running down from Koyasan, straddling the towns of Kimino and Aridagawa. A prefectural natural park, its 870-metre summit is…
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Shukubo Fudoin: A Night Inside a Cultural Property on Koyasan
Koyasan has dozens of temples that take overnight guests, but few let you eat inside the designated building itself. Fudoin, founded some eleven centuries ago and long…
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Kadohama Goma-Tofu Sohonpo: Sesame Tofu Kaiseki on Koyasan
Goma-dofu, the sesame “tofu” of Japanese temple cooking, contains no soya at all: sesame paste is set with kudzu starch into a dense, faintly elastic block. On Koyasan…
Yuasa Soy Sauce & Around View all
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M.CITRUS Fruit Parlor: Citrus Soft Serve at a Yuasa Mandarin Farm
M.CITRUS Fruit Parlor stands among the terraced groves of Suhara, on the slopes above Yuasa Bay, about ten minutes by car from the Yuasa interchange. It is the shop…
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Wadining Seino Honten: Michelin Bib Gourmand Ramen in Arida
Wadining Seino began as a washoku dining room in Arida, Wakayama's mandarin country, and the ramen was an afterthought. The owner, Harada, bought whole chickens so he…
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Mendining Tsukinoya: Aridagawa's Third Way in Wakayama Ramen
Wakayama ramen is usually told as a story of two camps — the cloudy, pork-heavy Ide school and the clear soy broth of the Shakomae school. Mendining Tsukinoya, on a main…
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Yuasa: Lunch and a Walk Where Soy Sauce Began
Japanese soy sauce began here. In 1254 the monk Kakushin came back from Song China with the method for kinzanji miso, and Yuasa's brewers noticed a fragrant red-brown…
Shirahama Beach & Around View all
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Kumahei Cafe: Plum-Vinegar Karaage and Nine Umeboshi in Minabe
Kumahei Cafe occupies one corner of the Minabe shop of Kumahei no Ume, a Kishu nanko-ume specialist founded in 1941, three minutes by car from the Minabe interchange…
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Michi-no-Eki Shihara Kaigan and Bear's Rock (Roadside Station)
Michi-no-Eki Shihara Kaigan stands on National Route 42 at Hiki, in the Hikigawa district of Shirahama, registered since 1995. The stop is worth making for what lies…
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Michi-no-Eki Minabe Ume Shinkokan (Roadside Station)
Minabe grows more plums than any other town in Japan, and this three-storey roadside station on Route 424 is where the crop is explained and sold. The orchards on the…
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Michi-no-Eki Ryujin (Roadside Station)
Michi-no-Eki Ryujin sits on Route 371 in Ryujin-mura, a forested village high in the mountains of Tanabe. It is run by the local forestry cooperative, and the place…
Kushimoto & Around View all
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Michi-no-Eki Mushikui-iwa (Roadside Station)
Kozagawa is a town of river gorges and forest, inland from Wakayama's southern coast, and this small roadside station stands directly in front of Mushikui-iwa — a rock…
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Michi-no-Eki Ichimai-iwa monolith (Roadside Station)
Kozagawa, inland from Wakayama's southern coast, is a town of outsized rocks, and Ichimai-iwa is the largest of them: a single wall of stone roughly 100 metres high and…
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Kushimoto Tuna Beyond the Plate: Auctions, Feeding and Canning
Kushimoto, the southernmost town on Honshu, is tuna country. It was in Wakayama that Kindai University achieved the world’s first full-cycle farming of Pacific bluefin…
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Michi-no-Eki Kushimoto Hashigui-iwa (Roadside Station)
This roadside station sits right beside the Hashigui-iwa, Kushimoto's celebrated line of sea rocks and one of the sights of Honshu's southern tip. A second-floor…
Nachi Falls & Around View all
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Michi-no-Eki Taiji (Roadside Station)
Michi-no-Eki Taiji stands on Route 42, which traces the old Kumano Kaido, at the entrance to Taiji — the smallest town in Wakayama, and one whose name has long been…
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Michi-no-Eki Oku-Kumano Kodo Hongu (Roadside Station)
Five minutes by car from Kumano Hongu Taisha, on the bank of the Kumano River, this roadside station is run by the local agricultural co-operative, JA Mikumano. That…
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Katsuura: Tuna, a Harbour Footbath and Japan's Football Roots
Nachikatsuura sits at the south-eastern tip of the Kii Peninsula, three and a half hours by car from central Osaka. The drive is long, and it delivers three things at…
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Mountain Open-Air Baths: The Three Hot Springs of Kumano Hongu
Kumano Hongu Onsen-go is not one resort but three hot-spring hamlets in the mountains of Tanabe, close to the Kumano Kodo trails that converge on Kumano Hongu Taisha…
Popular stories
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How to Enjoy Adventure World, Nanki-Shirahama
Adventure World in Shirahama is one of Japan's great combined theme parks — a zoo, aquarium and amusement park rolled into an 800,000-square-metre site with some 36…
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Michi-no-Eki Kushimoto Hashigui-iwa (Roadside Station)
This roadside station sits right beside the Hashigui-iwa, Kushimoto's celebrated line of sea rocks and one of the sights of Honshu's southern tip. A second-floor…
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Ramen Tanbo: Michelin Bib Gourmand Shio Ramen in Gobo
In a quiet residential corner of Gobo City, the small shop Ramen Tanbo has drawn the attention of Wakayama's food lovers as a Michelin Bib Gourmand pick in the guide's…
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Capsule-Toy (Gachapon) Hotspots in Wakayama City
Gachapon — the coin-operated capsule-toy machines you find all over Japan — are a small, addictive pleasure, and Wakayama City turns out to be a surprisingly good…
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Akagidani Suigo: Flowing Somen and Ayu Fishing in Tanabe
Akagidani Suigo (read 'Akagidani Suigo') is a beloved nagashi-somen restaurant in the Ayukawa district of Tanabe, about 30 minutes inland from the Nanki-Shirahama hot…
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Retro Gobo: A Photogenic Town Walk
Gobo's old quarter is built for a slow, camera-in-hand morning. Around Jinaimachi, the wooden townscape of the Edo, Meiji and Showa eras still stands, and the back lanes…