A curated travel journal from Japan's Kii Peninsula
Best things to do in Wakayama
Attractions, Itineraries & Day Trips
Wakayama occupies the Kii Peninsula, the mountainous thumb of land south of Osaka — close enough to reach in an hour, remote enough to keep its secrets. This is where Japan goes on pilgrimage: to Koyasan's monastery town, along the Kumano Kodo trails, to the great waterfall at Nachi. It is also where Japan holidays quietly — white-sand onsen resorts, tuna harbours, and the town that gave the country soy sauce. We gather the best local Japanese-language writing about all of it, so you can travel deeper than the guidebooks go.
Explore by area
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Wakayama City & Around Castle town ramen, temple steps, lacquer streets and harbour sunsets
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Koyasan & Around A monastery town in the clouds, orchards in the valley below
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Yuasa Soy Sauce & Around Soy sauce's birthplace, mikan terraces and the Hidaka coast
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Shirahama Beach & Around White sand, open-air onsen — and Japan's plum heartland
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Kushimoto & Around Honshu's southernmost cape — rock pillars, coral seas, clear rivers
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Nachi Falls & Around Japan's tallest waterfall and all three grand shrines of Kumano
Latest stories
Wakayama City & Around View all
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Michi-no-Eki Negoro Sakura no Sato (Roadside Station)
Michi-no-Eki Negoro Sakura no Sato is a farm stand and rest stop in Iwade, on the northern edge of Wakayama, five minutes by car from the Iwade-Negoro interchange. It…
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Tomogashima: Walking the Meiji Fort Ruins of an Uninhabited Island
Tomogashima is a cluster of uninhabited islets off Kada, at the western edge of Wakayama City. Under Meiji the army fortified them to guard the Kitan Strait and the sea…
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Summer Time Rendering: An Anime Pilgrimage to Tomogashima and Kada
Summer Time Rendering, Yasuki Tanaka's time-loop thriller, unfolds on an island called Hitogashima that does not exist — though almost everything on it does. Hitogashima…
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Sushi Tozaemon: Good-Value Sushi and Sashimi Lunches in Iwade
Sushi Tozaemon (すし藤左ヱ門) is a smart little sushi restaurant in Iwade, on the inland edge of the Wakayama City area, and it has earned a loyal lunchtime following for one…
Koyasan & Around View all
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Shukubo Fudoin: A Night Inside a Cultural Property on Koyasan
Koyasan has dozens of temples that take overnight guests, but few let you eat inside the designated building itself. Fudoin, founded some eleven centuries ago and long…
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Kadohama Goma-Tofu Sohonpo: Sesame Tofu Kaiseki on Koyasan
Goma-dofu, the sesame “tofu” of Japanese temple cooking, contains no soya at all: sesame paste is set with kudzu starch into a dense, faintly elastic block. On Koyasan…
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Nikenme Hanten: Katsuragi's Signature Garlic-Chive Stir-Fry Lunch
Nikenme Hanten (二軒目飯店) is a machi-chuka — a neighbourhood Chinese diner — that has fed Katsuragi since 1965, from a roadside plot on Route 24, in the same town as the…
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Michi-no-Eki Kaki-no-Sato Kudoyama (Roadside Station)
Michi-no-Eki Kaki-no-Sato Kudoyama is a roadside station in Kudoyama, a small town in the hills of north-east Wakayama that has long served as a gateway to the sacred…
Yuasa Soy Sauce & Around View all
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Shirasaki Coast: Japan's Aegean, and the Cafés of Yura
Yura sits about midway down the Wakayama coast, twenty to thirty minutes from the Hirogawa interchange, and it is the white rock that people come for. At Shirasaki Ocean…
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Retro Gobo: A Photogenic Town Walk
Gobo's old quarter is built for a slow, camera-in-hand morning. Around Jinaimachi, the wooden townscape of the Edo, Meiji and Showa eras still stands, and the back lanes…
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Gobo: An Unexpectedly Deep Little City
Most travellers know Wakayama for its coast and its mountains, and drive straight past Gobo, a small city on the prefecture's mid-coast where the Hidaka River meets the…
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Ramen Tanbo: Michelin Bib Gourmand Shio Ramen in Gobo
In a quiet residential corner of Gobo City, the small shop Ramen Tanbo has drawn the attention of Wakayama's food lovers as a Michelin Bib Gourmand pick in the guide's…
Shirahama Beach & Around View all
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Michi-no-Eki Ryujin (Roadside Station)
Michi-no-Eki Ryujin sits on Route 371 in Ryujin-mura, a forested village high in the mountains of Tanabe. It is run by the local forestry cooperative, and the place…
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Kaisen Senbei Nanki: Seafood Rice Crackers near Shirahama
On the coast road between Tanabe and the hot-spring resort of Shirahama, Kaisen Senbei Nanki is the kind of souvenir stop that fills its car park at weekends. Open since…
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Akagidani Suigo: Flowing Somen and Ayu Fishing in Tanabe
Akagidani Suigo (read 'Akagidani Suigo') is a beloved nagashi-somen restaurant in the Ayukawa district of Tanabe, about 30 minutes inland from the Nanki-Shirahama hot…
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How to Enjoy Adventure World, Nanki-Shirahama
Adventure World in Shirahama is one of Japan's great combined theme parks — a zoo, aquarium and amusement park rolled into an 800,000-square-metre site with some 36…
Kushimoto & Around View all
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Michi-no-Eki Mushikui-iwa (Roadside Station)
Kozagawa is a town of river gorges and forest, inland from Wakayama's southern coast, and this small roadside station stands directly in front of Mushikui-iwa — a rock…
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Michi-no-Eki Ichimai-iwa monolith (Roadside Station)
Kozagawa, inland from Wakayama's southern coast, is a town of outsized rocks, and Ichimai-iwa is the largest of them: a single wall of stone roughly 100 metres high and…
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Kushimoto Tuna Beyond the Plate: Auctions, Feeding and Canning
Kushimoto, the southernmost town on Honshu, is tuna country. It was in Wakayama that Kindai University achieved the world’s first full-cycle farming of Pacific bluefin…
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Michi-no-Eki Kushimoto Hashigui-iwa (Roadside Station)
This roadside station sits right beside the Hashigui-iwa, Kushimoto's celebrated line of sea rocks and one of the sights of Honshu's southern tip. A second-floor…
Nachi Falls & Around View all
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Michi-no-Eki Taiji (Roadside Station)
Michi-no-Eki Taiji stands on Route 42, which traces the old Kumano Kaido, at the entrance to Taiji — the smallest town in Wakayama, and one whose name has long been…
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Michi-no-Eki Oku-Kumano Kodo Hongu (Roadside Station)
Five minutes by car from Kumano Hongu Taisha, on the bank of the Kumano River, this roadside station is run by the local agricultural co-operative, JA Mikumano. That…
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Katsuura: Tuna, a Harbour Footbath and Japan's Football Roots
Nachikatsuura sits at the south-eastern tip of the Kii Peninsula, three and a half hours by car from central Osaka. The drive is long, and it delivers three things at…
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Mountain Open-Air Baths: The Three Hot Springs of Kumano Hongu
Kumano Hongu Onsen-go is not one resort but three hot-spring hamlets in the mountains of Tanabe, close to the Kumano Kodo trails that converge on Kumano Hongu Taisha…
Popular stories
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How to Enjoy Adventure World, Nanki-Shirahama
Adventure World in Shirahama is one of Japan's great combined theme parks — a zoo, aquarium and amusement park rolled into an 800,000-square-metre site with some 36…
-
Michi-no-Eki Kushimoto Hashigui-iwa (Roadside Station)
This roadside station sits right beside the Hashigui-iwa, Kushimoto's celebrated line of sea rocks and one of the sights of Honshu's southern tip. A second-floor…
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Ramen Tanbo: Michelin Bib Gourmand Shio Ramen in Gobo
In a quiet residential corner of Gobo City, the small shop Ramen Tanbo has drawn the attention of Wakayama's food lovers as a Michelin Bib Gourmand pick in the guide's…
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Capsule-Toy (Gachapon) Hotspots in Wakayama City
Gachapon — the coin-operated capsule-toy machines you find all over Japan — are a small, addictive pleasure, and Wakayama City turns out to be a surprisingly good…
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Akagidani Suigo: Flowing Somen and Ayu Fishing in Tanabe
Akagidani Suigo (read 'Akagidani Suigo') is a beloved nagashi-somen restaurant in the Ayukawa district of Tanabe, about 30 minutes inland from the Nanki-Shirahama hot…
-
Retro Gobo: A Photogenic Town Walk
Gobo's old quarter is built for a slow, camera-in-hand morning. Around Jinaimachi, the wooden townscape of the Edo, Meiji and Showa eras still stands, and the back lanes…