Michi-no-Eki Taiji (Roadside Station)

Overview

Michi-no-Eki Taiji stands on Route 42, which traces the old Kumano Kaido, at the entrance to Taiji — the smallest town in Wakayama, and one whose name has long been bound up with whales. Organised whaling began here in the early seventeenth century, and the station is now the main information point for the Japan Heritage story ‘Living with Whales’, with a space introducing the whaling culture of the Kumano-nada coast through animation.

The farm stand carries the day’s catch from the Kumano-nada, produce from the hills behind and home-made deli dishes. The restaurant is where the town shows itself most plainly — curry with the rice moulded into the shape of a whale, a set meal of whale tatsuta-age, a whale stamina donburi in a sweet-savoury house sauce, a whale katsu burger, and tuna katsu for those who would rather not. The stamina donburi is the gentle one: tender, without the gaminess first-timers expect.

Leave room for the Nachiguro soft serve, made under the confectioner’s supervision with kuromitsu, the dark sugar syrup that goes into Nachiguro, the black hard sweet Taiji is known for. This was the first roadside station in the country to make and sell it, and a mix with rich milk is offered too. Reckon on about 2 hours 25 minutes from the Wakayama IC, with parking on site. Shop, morning service, café and kitchen keep different hours and closing days are irregular, so check the official channels before setting out.